Day 11 - Part I - Learning How to Pay for the Tokyo Subway

What do you do when you barely speak the language, can’t read it to save your life, and the fares are obscure and ever changing depending on distance, time of day, and which rail line you used to get from point A to point B?

You get a reloadable transit card.  Charge it up, and let the computers figure out what you owe – like everyone who lives there does.  And these are good in trains, busses and some taxis.  

The subways... look like subways.

However the machines only take cash… and we were very low.  It was at the end of this day that we realized the only way to go was to just use the cash machine at Denny’s.  It didn’t care we were foreigners.  Every other cash machine we tried (in the subway stations, at banks… and the museum store we went to didn’t even have an ATM, who’s ever heard of that in the US?) required you to have an account in a bank IN Japan.  We didn’t.  So, we had to find a machine that only needed the reassurance of VISA.

Fun Fact: Most Japanese carry huge amounts of cash on them at all times.  Just weeks after we visited Japan, this fact was borne out by the huge number of home safes, full of cash, that washed up as debris from the tsunami that ravished the east coast of Japan after the magnitude 9+ earthquake that hit Japan March 11, 2011.  Paying with plastic has not really caught on.  The transit cards are beginning to work like debit cards – especially with the vending machines, but in general, Japan remains a cash society.

We finally got SUICA cards for all of us (getting a kid transit card was the hardest – they only give them to you if a kid is actually there – and make sure it matches the kid’s ID.) These are the nationwide transit/debit cards.  There are also city only cards, but being travellers we went for the wider option.  Phew, we could now pay without complication.  It was time to go exploring.  The Tokyo National Museum and the surrounding park seemed like a great place to start.  

Day 10 - Part II – Dinner & a Show

Yes… now that we are in Japan, we can have sushi.

And as I had come to suspect, one of the reasons for the worldwide success of sushi is that good sushi is a result of a nose for fresh ingredients (unique to location), the right rice (easily transportable) and technique.  The sushi we had in Tokyo was very good, the trimmings made it more Japanese than I had experienced,

There were certainly more different fish, and small fish to choose from, and the clam broth – with cute little clams in it was delicious and comforting.  Umami.

When we were all happy, relaxed and full, we got ready to go, and were presented with beautifully wrapped little “take home sushi” (of the pressed and cut variety, rather than rolled) was the cherry on top making it not like at home at all.

After we returned to our room, and realized no one was tired yet, we pulled out the Lonely Planet, and realized we were just down the road from Hakuhinkan – or – as the English writing on the outside says, “TOY PARK.”  This place looks like troop of 13 year olds were in charge of stocking it.  Everything you want is crammed cheek by jowl with everything else everyone else wants, in only a mildly haphazard fashion.  And there is the biggest slot car track I have ever seen on the 4^th floor.

Almost painfully authentic;
 the Japanese girls in coveralls
and pigtails... and all those boys.
Except for his gargantuan parent,
Tavin fits in a little too well

 Cars were driven and crashed. 

And then it was time for us to crash too.

Day 10 - Part I - Breakfast at Denny’s & Video Game Shopping

Alec was ready for less adventure in the morning – not more.

So we headed across the street.  The cigarette machine on the way in and the wine list at the table (Spanish, Italian & German – French is only at the fancy places) should have hinted that Denny’s here does not mean what you think it means.

They did have “western” breakfast.  It was just so small.  On the other hand, Tavin and I went for hot Japanese breakfast – and between the salmon filet, noodle soup, seaweed, and tea, we were all set for the day.

            What we should have noted was the ATM – near the cigarette machine – for that became our source of cash.  Most bank ATM’s in Japan only work with their own cards or network cards, not just some random Visa Debit card.  We only came to terms with this after fussing with several machines for many minutes – both in train stations and at several bank branches around the city. 

           

            Before we really got going in Tokyo – we had a mission – to find a Specific PS3 video game.  So Alec went to Akihabara – Electronics Town with Tavin on a hunt.  Success all around. 

This is the one time the pictures taken are pretty much indistinguishable from pictures taken at home… and are all of things Tavin thought were cool.

Since Alec had Lonely Planet – with maps & Japanese characters, he was able to get a Taxi there and back.  We saved “braving the Japanese rail system” for the next day.

Somedays Simple is Best

"I'm hungry."

"What would you like?"

"Apple.  And something."

"Well, let me see what we've got." Fridge opens to a hopeless mish-mash of this, that, and the other.
"How about oh... umm... well, we've got...."

"No, I just want something simple."

And here it is.

Yes, with the new crop apples, it is time to bring back apples and peanut butter - whether you like creamy, crunchy, salted or not, and with extra goodies - like flax seed.  Or for those who've had it with the peanut, there are plenty of options sunflower butter, cashew butter...

And then there's another favorite - pears with almond butter.

It's Cold Baby... Bake Me Somethin' Good and Warm

This morning had a gorgeous sunrise - a good while AFTER I was up.
And when we walked to school, we could see our breath.
(This is going to be one of these silly conversational posts - here's just the recipe for Roasted Root Veggies.)

Are We being spoken of?

And I am loosing patience with the cat as he lingers at the door deciding, "how long do I sit here before she closes the door in my face."

Ok, I don't actually know what my cat is thinking, but I am more impatient when my toes are getting cold while he's doing it, and I swear he's taking longer about it.

All of this means Fall is here.
And I want something warm, cozy and full of flavor.
And we got one of the last CSA bags of the season full of roots of all sorts.

carrots, beets, parsnips, potatoes & onions
and some kale & sage - yes I know, those are leaves.

Roots!  Isn't that a bunch of stuff that grows underground?
Like, in the dirt?

"Mom, your build up to introduce beets isn't fooling anyone.  You are going to try to convince people to eat beets."

"Well, kale and parsnips too." "Hey, I don't know how to type that noise."  "Or that one."

"And mom, you know cooking carrots ruins them.  Ruins them!"

"Not always."

"Does so."

"Look - you're going to have to take a..."

"I know I know, a no thank you bite.  kkKkKKkkkkkKKk."


Anyway, I'm starting with a pile of vegetables.  And I'm not even going to pretend, all that rinsing and peeling and chopping, along with the other prep happens in a flash.  It doesn't.  It will take time, and make a pile of peelings.

Cooked root veggies freeze GREAT!  Especially par-cooked.  Why do you think the freezer isle at the grocery store has an entire "potatoes" section.

So I am taking on this pile once to make lots of...

"Boring!  Yes, very good cook once, eat lots.  Get it."

"Aren't you impatient."

"Hungry."

Alrighty Then.  The root veggies get turned into chunks, the beets thinner, 'cuz they are the toughest.
Salt and oil on a sheet pan at 425˚F.

"See always with the 425˚F.  What's wrong with 350?"

"Better for baking.  I like the hint of a crispy edge on my parsnip."

For 20 minutes.

"How are you going to work in the bacon drippings?  You know most people just throw away their dirty used grease."

"Hey, that grease hasn't been used.  The bacon had too much, the stuff in the dish in my fridge is what it couldn't use.  And it's not dirty, just seasoned.  And I'm going to use it with the sage and kale.  And chicken stock.  So there."

When you get everything par cooked - Tupperware!

"Isn't that just a brand name, that you happen to not be using?"

"It works if everyone knows what I'm talking about."

"Until the Tupperware police come and get you."

Anyway... do this:

 3 servings.  1 for now, 2 for the freezer.

To finish all of them, all parts - the root veg, the kale, the herbs.  Stir in a little vinegar and bake at 425˚F until super tasty.

Truffle salt may be good here too for finishing it off.

"It's not optional.  That thing you did with the frozen ones with the rice vinegar and soy sauce wasn't as good.  Truffle salt all the way.  OK.  The carrots weren't ruined.  I still like them raw better though."

Fall Roasted Root Veggies

Just want to bake some steal-out-of-the-pan good root veggies with out all the drama?
This is very definitely a use what you have kinda recipe.

The two secrets - 1) removing water from root veggies creates more intense flavors,
2) cooking at a higher heat breaks down the natural starches and sugars to make yummy brown flavors (OK, it caramelizes them.  I hate how that word has been overexposed and overused of late.)

Here ya' go.

Roasted Root Veg

Equipment:
knife
cutting board
vegetable peeler
baking sheet
sauté pan w/ a lid
(snap top container - for freezing extra servings)

Ingredients:
12 - 15 root vegetables (include starchy, sweet & earthy if you can)
Choose From
-potatoes
-beets
-parsnips
-onions
-carrots

a drizzle of salt
2 tsp oil

small handful sage

(& I had parsley too - so a big one of parsley)

2 tsp bacon drippings (or oil, or butter)

1/4 - 1/2 C chicken stock/water

1 lb (+/-) hearty leafy dark greens
Choose From
-kale
-collards
-chard
-beet greens
-mustard greens are good too if you like that kick.
(stay away from the cabbage-y stuff for this.)

balsamic vinegar - 1 Tbs per baking pan.
truffle salt - to taste (sprinkle, stir, taste, repeat until perfect)

Prep:
All the root veg.  Rinse them off so they are not muddy.
Cut off the fuzzy roots (let your parsnips stay pointy!) and any other parts you wouldn't want to eat.
Peel off the tough outer skin with your vegetable peeler.
Cut up the veg into bite size pieces, and make the beets thinner, since they are tougher and need more cooking.  The onion pieces can be a bit larger.




Place these on your baking sheets
(I had 2 pans worth!)
Spread them out so they are not stacked.

Sprinkle a bit of oil and salt on your veg, and toss thoroughly (clean hands works great).

Kale, collards and mustard all have a stem
like a stick.  Not yummy.  Pull it out.

Rinse your leaves and herbs well.
Tear the big heavy stems out of your greens (you can just chop up chard, stems and all).  Tear or chop the leaves into pieces hand size or smaller.

The herbs need to be chopped fine.







Cook!
Heat your oven to 425˚F
Pop the veg in for 20 minutes.

While the veg are roasting, heat up your sauté pan with the fat in it.  Toss in a piece of sage, when the pan is warming up over medium high heat.  When it sizzles, stir in the rest of the herbs until they are fragrant.  Toss in the leaves, and get them coated in the fat and herbs.  Stir for a minute or so.
Add the stock, clap on the lid, lower the heat to medium and cook for about 8 minutes.  The leaves need to be limp, but not necessarily cooked to done.

Pull the par-cooked veg out of the oven at the end of 20 minutes and lower the heat to 375˚F.

Combine all the veg.  If you have made a "whole bunch" this is where you cool and freeze servings for later.  See below for the "from frozen" directions.

Toss the veg on the pan with vinegar, and a pinch of the truffle salt.
Back into the oven for 15 more minutes.

Check the veg.  Are they tender?  A tiny bit of browning?  When they get there, pull them out and toss them together in a bowl.  Taste for vinegar and salt.
The sweet of the carrots and/or beets and/or parsnips should be met with a little sour from the vinegar.  And taste for salt - and mysteriousness of the earthy truffle.  Add a little more of either if it is needed.

And suddenly what may have been a bad idea in the frozen section becomes something that gets stolen out of the pan before it gets to the table.

***From Frozen***

Heat your oven to 375˚F
Spread the veg (roots & leaves) out on your pan.
Toss with the Tbs of vinegar and a sprinkle of the truffle salt.
Roast for at least 25 minutes.  Again, check for the browning, and intensified flavor.  When you get there, finish the same way.
Not instant, but darn fast.  And darn good.

An Easier to Follow Calzone Recipe

I don't know what got into me when I put together that last recipe.  But if you found it a little hard to follow... here's the sane version:

Pumpkin-Ground Beef Calzones

Equipment:

Large Bowl
Knife
Cutting Board
Sauté Pan
Square baking pan
Counter Space - for dealing with dough
Small Bowl
Cookie Sheet (or Pizza Stone if yer fancy)
Measuring spoons - if you don't feel good guessing spice amounts.

Ingredients:

Calzones -
Pizza dough (make or buy)
Small "pie" pumpkin - the kind for eaten' not for looking' at.
1 lb ground beef (I'm betting lamb, pork or a combo are all good too - even turkey)
1 med. onion - purple if you can
Chili Powder (start w/ 2 tsp)
Smoked Paprika (start w/ 1 tsp)
Garlic Powder (start w/ 1 tsp)
Salt & Pepper (start w/ 1/4 tsp each)

Dipping Sauce -
Really ripe tomatoes
the spices you used in the calzones
- or -
Super basic tomato/marinara sauce with some chipotle salsa stirred in
-or - some variation to make a smoky, spicy tomato based dipping sauce.

Greens on the Side -
Dark green greens (whatcha' got - just know 1 lb = 1 Cup cooked)
A few cloves of garlic
2 tsp bacon fat or oil
Salt & Pepper
1/4 - 1/2 C water or stock
Splash of vinegar

Prep:
Preheat oven to 375˚F.
With the large knife, cut the pumpkin in half, and scoop out all the insides.  (See previous recipe for info on proper transformation of the pumpkin guts)
Place the pumpkin halves open side down in your baking pan with a small puddle of water (no higher than 1/4 in. (1/2 cm)).  Bake for 30 min, or until the flesh is fork tender, and the edges are browning a bit.  When this is done, set it aside to cool.
(This can also be done ahead, and refrigerated at this point for tomorrow)

Slice you onion into pieces thinner than your pinky.
Get all your spices out.
Wash and roughly chop your dark greens (Spinach, chard, beet greens, kale...)
Slice your garlic as thin as you possibly can, or mince it fine.
When the pumpkin is cool enough to handle, scoop the flesh off the pumpkin's skin, and mash it up roughly - so it is broken up.  (Don't worry if the flesh is a little under cooked, you will be cooking it the rest of the way as you continue.)

Cook!


Heat a saute pan, cook down a sliced onion (purple if you got 'em) and some sage in a little bacon fat (or oil) over med-low heat, until the onions are soft.  Brown the pound of ground beef.
Stir in the spices - in the starting amounts.  THen taste and add more of what you think it needs.  Mine needed more garlic, smoked paprika and salt.
Then stir in the pumpkin pulp you scooped off the skin after it cooled enough to handle.
Mash it up and stir it into the seasoned ground beef and purple onions.  Taste and adjust the seasonings until it makes you want to eat it all up right there.  Restrain Yourself.  
(Fillilng can be cooled and frozen at this point - so make double, and save some for later)


Get a clean expanse of counter very floury.  Divide up the dough into 6 pieces.  Make them into small circles.  Put A few tablespoons of the pumpkin-beef filling into the center.  Fold the circle onto itself, seal the edge by pressing down emphatically.  Fork tines help.  Repeat with other dough circles.

When your calzones are all closed up, poke them a few times to let air escape.  Place on a cookie sheet (or appropriate alternative) in the 375˚F oven for about 30 min., or until dough is in a GBD state (Golden Brown & Delicious).


The dipping sauce is only a matter of mixing the ingredients together to get a smoky, tomatoey dipping sauce.


For the greens, while the calzones are baking, start the sliced garlic in the bacon grease over med low heat - to slowly melt it.  When it gets floppy and mild, turn up the heat, add the greens to wilt them.  Add the liquid, and cover while the greens simmer until they are tender.  Take the top off, reduce the liquid, add salt pepper and a splash of vinegar to make them extra tasty.


Serve everything... and as the phoneticists say - "WA LAA!"