Friday, July 18, 2014

Fava Bean & Beet Salad

I dunno where YOU are, but up here in the Pacific North West, the sun has been shining more than usual - and around here that is a good thing.  The result is beautiful beets, the arrival of the fava beans and spectacular lettuces.  And then, fresh garlic is here to.  That means salads with garlicky vinaigrette.

This year, I ran across a fascinating hybrid of Chioggia (candy stripe) beets and golden beets.  They ended up looking particularly psychedelic.

The hardest part about this salad is the fava beans - they need to come out of their well-padded, fuzzy pods AND out of their tough, slippery, light green skins.  But go ahead, don't be afraid.  Jump in and try this one.  It is worth the effort.  Other than the lettuce, everything is really hearty, so you can make  lots of beets, onions and beans one cool night, then make this salad over and over on hot steamy days.

Fava Bean & Pickled Beet Salad
(Serves 1 for an excellent lunch.  Multiply for the crowd you have.  OR, make lots, and have the salad several times.  The pickled beets and blanched favas keep for about a week in the fridge.)

This is what you do with favas and beets to make them easier to handle – which is important when you find out how tasty this combination is.

beets - 2 small, any color
fava beans 4-5 pods
lettuce – 1 small head or 5-6 leaves from a large head
fresh cheese – crumbles (think goat cheese, queso fresco, feta)
sweet onion – ¼ of a large one, or 1 small
herbs – a handful of what’s handy (dill & parsley are excellent)

pickling liquid –
water – 1 C
vinegar – ½ C (rice, cider or wine)
peppercorns – 6
cinnamon stick – 1 (or 6 allspice berries)
cloves – 2 whole
salt – 2 tsp
sugar – 2 Tbs

dressing –
3 Tbs used pickling liquid
pepper (& salt) -  to taste
mustard – 2 tsp
garlic – 2 cloves (fresh garlic if you see it!)
tasty oil - ¼ C (nice olive oil is excellent here)

optional – garlic bread or nifty crackers


cutting board
vegetable peeler
slotted spoon
2 – 3 medium and small bowls
sauce pan with lid
whisk or fork
small snap-top container with tight lid for mixing dressing (or another bowl & whisk)
salad spinner (optional)
salad bowl or serving plate
measuring cups and spoons


Grab the fava pods.  Break off the stem end, use it to pull the sting off the top seam of the pod.  Pull out the beans (but leave them in their skins – the trick for getting them off is a little further down).
Chop the greens off the beets if they have them.  If they are small, tender and tasty looking, put them with your lettuces, or to the side for cooking later (just like chard).
Peel the beets with your vegetable peeler.  Slice them into wedges the thickness of your pinky, or thinner.
Rinse and dry your lettuce, and any optional herbs (use your salad spinner here if you have one).
Slice the onion thinly.
Measure out all the dressing ingredients into the small snap-top container EXCEPT for the pickling liquid.
Measure out the pickling liquid ingredients into the saucepan.

Put the pickling liquid ingredients in the saucepan, on the stove.  Bring to a boil.
Put the fava beans in the boiling liquid.  Fish one out with the slotted spoon after 3 minutes – run under cool water so you can handle it.  See if the bean slips out of the  pale green skin easily.  If not – try each minute until they do.  When the skin slips off easily, scoop out the rest of the beans and let them cool in one of the small bowls.

Put the sliced beets and half the onions into the pickling liquid.  Bring to a boil, then reduce to a simmer.  Let them simmer until they are fork tender – this will take about 10 minutes.

While the beets are cooking, peel the fava beans (run under cool water if you need to, so you can handle them).  Also chop or crumble a tablespoon or two of cheese.

Make the optional garlic bread or toast.

When the beets are cooked through, take the saucepan off the heat.

Add 3 Tbs of the pickling liquid to the dressing and shake it well to combine all the ingredients.

Combine the chopped herbs, beets, fava beans and onions (both pickled and raw) and cheese.  Toss with enough dressing to make the salad tasty.  Enjoy with our without the garlic bread.

Variation:  If you are using regular onion, pickle it all!
Add, subtract and substitute ingredients as you need to.

Sweet lettuces like little gem, romaine, Boston and bibb are especially good.  Roasted nuts and seeds go well in here as well.

Tuesday, May 6, 2014

Sunchoke / Jerusalem Artichoke - What the Heck!?

OK - lets get something squared away right now.

What is a Sunchoke / Jerusalem Artichoke?
What does it have to do with Artichokes?
And should I end up with one, what the HECK do I do with it?

This is the specimen.

It looks like an extra lumpy potato.  Or ginger with problems.
It actually is the tuber of a variety of sunflower, Helianthus tuberosus (here's more on that if you care: "Wikipedia Says").  That's where the "Sun" comes in.

As for the "choke" or "Artichoke"?  That refers to the mysterious sweet taste that the tuber develops when it is roasted

Like this:
Yummy - peeled and roasted with potatoes.
For taste - the cooked sunchoke tastes a dead ringer for artichoke heart.  

Last of all - WHAT is up with the "Jerusalem" part?  Well, that has to do with the American ability to turn a weird word into another weird word they like better.  In this case - "girasole" or Italian for Sunflower appears to have been morphed into Jerusalem.

Sunchoke can be eaten raw but needs to be peeled and sliced quite thin.  It should also be eaten in combination with other vegetables - not too much at a time as it's carbohydrates are stored as inulin (not to be confused with insulin) which is a fiber that humans cannot digest, but our gut bacteria go to town on.  So too much sunchoke is like too many beans.  With musical results.

This is a crop best left to the experts as these little tubers are voracious growers and can take over a yard.

So don't be afraid of them - I'd even go so far as experiment with using them in place of artichoke hearts - but use restraint.  And have fun.

Wednesday, April 30, 2014

I Would Eat THOSE Carrots

I have learned a lot about carrots.

I confess, I do believe the first carrots I remember eating were cooked.  And I didn't like them.  But they were marginally better than the peas they were nestled amongst.  So I ate them.

Yes, I am talking about those little orange cubes that hung out with those wrinkled green balls - all lately from the freezer - that stared up at me from my childhood plate.

Who ever thought peas and carrots were a good idea?

The mush fest that taunted me from my plate, why did this seem like something that I would ever ever like?

 Turns out, it makes much more sense if THESE are the carrots someone had in mind.  These would make great peas & carrots.  Especially if you were working with fresh garden peas.

These early spring babies are sweet and crispy crunchy.  Heck, even those little buzz cut carrot tops I left on them are pretty tasty once they've been cooked.

Better yet, these babies are so tender and sweet, they don't even need a glaze.  Glazing these guys might even be a crime.  Though - after eating this early spring bounty I can see where the idea of glazing carrots came from.

"Gosh, I wish these giant stored carrots had some of the early harvest sweetness."

And let me tell you after eating these babies, those whittled "baby carrots" at the grocery store look like the false promise they are.

All you need:

Fresh, tender baby carrots.

Peeler/scrubby brush

Cut off the tops leaving an inch or two -  ASAP.  All that lovely sweetness is being eaten by the leaves.
Give them a really good scrubbing or a quick peel.  Your choice.  You can just scrape them with a knife too.

Trim the green top to about an inch or so.  Toss in a little oil, sprinkle with a little salt, and roast at 425F for about 10 min.

That's it.

Yum YUM!

Friday, April 11, 2014

Dandelion Update - "Cream-of", That Is.

Dandelions are bitter.

And water is wet, and cats shed and disdain the toys you bought for them.  I know.  Very painfully obvious stuff.

But tonight - after a bunch of Julia Child encounters, and enormous success with the

Cream of Sorrel soup, it was time to go out on a limb.

So we went for it.

Nope - just no getting around it.
Cream of Dandelion Soup
looks like all the "cream of" soups.
But they taste REALLY nice.

Step 1.  Find a place with dandelions that is not; impregnated with weed killer, too close to a road, a potty stop heaven for the neighborhood dogs.
These places are there, you just might have to think about it.

Step 2. Pick your dandelions.  Here at the height of weed season this takes all of 5 minutes.

Step 3.  Clean them.  This takes a bit longer.  Dandelions are not eaten all that much by insect life, but they hang out there.  And depending on how you picked yours, they may be a bit muddy.  So give them 2 or 3 washes in changes of water - and then spin or pat them dry.

And you can catch your son snitching the flowers to eat.
(If he's weird like mine.)
Or dip them in fritter batter and fry them.

Step 4.  Cut them up well. And get out the hand blender - as these leaves are heartier, and will need major mechanical assistance to break down.  (Unlike the sorrel which simply disintegrated into the soup - more or less.)

Go back and follow the Potage Feuilles de Printemps recipe.  But bring along the champagne vinegar.  And whatever you do, don't forget the salt.  This one needs both.

After you've made this soup... now you are ready for lots more stuff.  Maybe not ANYthing, but the veggies are not going to scare you any more.

Monday, April 7, 2014

Hardware Gin - Easy on the Palate

One distillery and Two intriguing gins; 

The Hardware Distillery out of Hoodsport, OR - I have to thank them for coming all the way up for the Meet Your Maker event in Seattle.  (That was a worm-drowner of a day).

For I was lucky enough to sample their two completely unique gins.

The first I tasted, the Crabby Gin, was easy on the palate - and I would certainly enjoy as a Martini - with those bright green buttery olives (Castelvetrano in case you were wondering).
It is billed as pairing with Dungeness Crab.  And as a woman who thinks Champagne and Crab is the end-all-be-all of food and wine pairing, I will take them up on this.

Distilled from the usual grain - but also cranberry and pear - the fruit comes across in a gentle, light gin.  It is unique in the group where gins tend toward either citrus forward, flowery or straight up declarations of juniper.  I love all kinds - well the best of their kinds - and Crabby Ginny is certainly an enjoyable new kind.

Second, the R Gin - co called because it harkens back to "the months oysters are good" - is made from barley cold smoked in an Oyster Smoking house.  R Gin was developed (partly) to pair with oysters.  Hmmmm.  I'll have to wonder about that... not having had any oysters on hand at the time.

But in the meantime - it screamed at me to be made into a Gibson.  But not with any ol' cocktail onion.  It needed a scorched onion.  Thus it is a Scorched Gibson if you will.  (2+ oz. gin shaken with ice and served in a Martini glass rinsed with Vermouth - or your favored ratio).

So I burned the heck out of some lightly oiled green onions, rolled them up and sent them for swim in a pickling liquid made of dry vermouth, rice vinegar and salt.

It was a wonder.

OK... I'm the first to admit,
the scorched scallions need some pretty-ing up
for presentation.  But they taste lovely.

To quick pickle some Scorched Scallions:

1. Get a jar usefully sterile.
Choose a small jar with a lid - small canning jars are perfect.
Place the clean jar and lid in a small sauce pan and cover with water.  Bring to a boil for two minutes and then leave it at a simmer (or lower) until it is time to use it.

2. Prepare the Pickling liquid
In a sauce pan add
1/2 C dry vermouth
1/2 C rice vinegar
1 Tbs salt

Bring to a boil for a minute and
Return to a simmer until you are ready to use it.

3. Toss some scallions in a little oil
4. Scorch over a grill/grill pan or under the broiler.  Keep an eye on them - it happens pretty quickly.

5.  Roll up the scallions and tie them together with the long green ends or stab through with a toothpick.

6. Use tongs to remove the jar from the hot water.  Place the rolled scorched onions in the jar.
Fill with the hot pickling liquid.  Close the jar, let it cool, place in the fridge for a few days or a week.

Friday, April 4, 2014

Potage Feuilles de Printemps

Cream Soup of Spring Leaves
(Thank You HS French + food-mad vocab)

Sounds Mad, it does.  What a messy, general, non-specific title.

But - as I alternate between long sleeves, sweater, fleece and a wind breaker and then Short Sleeves as a cloud moves, and then back to rain jacket as the rain falls - a hearty, warming, soothing, absolutely delicious soup seems just the thing.  Especially one that is the fruits (or leaves) of spring.

I've stared at Julia Child's Cream of Sorrel Soup for years.  Literally Years!

Yes... this is my mom's, butter stains and all.

And it seems over complicated.  But as I was turning chicken scraps from my freezer into stock (yeah.... I was going all out for this one), I broke it down into language I could see.  And it really turned out to be easy.

And then when I  got to the end... and it was time to make the toasty cheese sandwiches - but the soup needed a bit of fussing about with salt - and I was able to turn it over to the 5th grader...

Yeah it is worth is - and the soup makes total sense on a blustery spring evening.

So how to do this?

Prep - get the stock on the heat - close to a boil.  Clean your leaves - and cut them up in chiffonade or chopped to smithereens.
Measure everything out.  Mix the 1/2 C milk/cream with the 2 egg yolks.

Now it will be easy.

1/3 C onions or green garlic
cook it to soft in
3 Tbs butter

then make a white roux by stirring in the
3Tbs flour (interesting note - just needs to be starch - wheat is NOT essential)
and cooking for about 3 min to toast the starch - or whatever sort.

Stir in the 3-4 C chopped leaves - and maybe a ladleful of hot stock.  Coat with the roux (starch-butter-onion mixture) and keep stirring until the leaves are completely collapsed and maybe falling apart.

Add in the 5 1/2 C stock a bit at a time, so the roux stirs in and is not lumpy.

Stir 2 ladles of the soup into the egg+cream mixture.  Take the soup off the heat - and stir the tempered egg mixture back into the soup.

If it is not rich and creamy enough - stir in a little more butter.
Taste and check for salt.  This would be a bland, boring disappointing soup if not salted correctly.  I had a 5th grader check it for me (see above).

If photographing for FB or Pinterest, or serving for an important dinner with you S/O's boss, decorate with leaves.

Otherwise, eat as you listen to the rain drum on the roof.

Wednesday, April 2, 2014

Spring: Sorrel & Garlic

Farmers markets are right around the corner.

But in the meantime, my sorrel plants are living up to their billing - tough, willing to put up with my benign neglect, and first to sprout back up out of their roots.

Honest - all I did was leave them alone all winter.

Sorrel is the pleasant tonic of the spring plants.  While dandelion is super good for you (the whole reason it was imported by our fore bearers ) it is BITTER.  Sorrel has many of the same vitamin benefits, but its plentiful Vitamin C and oxalic acid give it a bracing sour flavor.  Lemony even!

But other than throwing it into a green smoothie - what to do?

It is still pretty wintery in terms of the food that's growing.  So that means chives and radishes.  (Those greenhouse people - they are doing much better.)

That means it is still pantry food time.  And what lives in the pantry?  Beans!  

Dried or canned beans are plentiful.  As we keep hearing, they are healthy, easy and full of good stuff.  But lets face it, plain beans are BLAND!
No problem - that also means they are begging for something with a big punch of flavor to be stirred in.  So when the Farmers Markets get rolling - and you see the dried beans for sale - you'll be able to see the other things - dried chiles, garlic (and if you are lucky, sorrel) in the right context.  These are here to bring those beans to life.  
In fact many of the cuisines of the world eat beans for breakfast - and hit them up with something flavorful and/or spicy to punch them up.  (see below for a few examples*)

But I'm specifically taking on the traditional breakfast food of Egypt - fūl medames.  Usually this is mature fava beans (they are tan or cream colored) cooked until soft, then flavored with 1. lemon, 2. raw garlic, 3. cumin, 4. olive oil, 5. salt and maybe 6. a pinch of pepper or cayenne.  
Eat with flat bread.

Perfect: along with the pantry beans, #2 over winters, #3 is in the spice cabinet, #4 pantry, #5 & #6 easy easy.  Ooooh, but lemon?  Oh, right how about a big handful of sorrel chopped to smithereens?  

I had fava beans in the pantry, but chickpeas/garbanzo beans are a fine replacement.  Both are starchy beans with a pleasant toasty flavor.  Split favas are nice because they cook up to a nice ready-to-mash-consistency in about 45 min, whereas dried chickpeas can take up to 3 hours. 
But there is no shame in canned.  Those only need about 15min on the stove to get to the right consistency.  (They do have those outer skins, but they are edible so you can just ignore them.)

So for a tasty, filling breakfast or lunch here's what to do:
(By the way - you can cook these beans while doing other dinner prep the night - or several nights before.  And this is a tasty dish that can happily go for a few lunches.)

Sorrel-for-Lemon Fūl Medames

sorrel leaves - 1/2 to 1 C
garlic cloves - 4
ground cumin - 2 tsp
olive oil (the tasty kind) - 2 to 4 Tbs (to taste)
cayenne pepper - a pinch or 2
salt - to taste

mature fava or garbanzo beans cooked very soft (instructions below) - about 2 C

blender or food processor (or cutting board & knife)
measuring cups and spoons

sauce pan for cooking beans
colander for draining beans (or pan lid)

Cook your beans - this can be done the night before, several days before, or even longer - you can freeze cooked beans.  (Some people say they get a little mealy - but since you are mashing them it doesn't matter.)

From dried beans:
Favas -  Pour 1 C dried split favas into the sauce pan.  Add water to rinse.  Rub them together to release any loose powder/starch.  Drain.  Add about 4 C water.  Bring to a boil.  Skim off the scum. Simmer for about 45 min or until the beans mash easily with a fork.

Garbanzos/Chick Peas - do the same, though they can take up to 3 hours.  Shorten the cook time with an overnight soak.

From canned beans:

Garbanzos/Chick Peas - use 2  14.5 oz. cans.  Drain in a colander and give the a quick rinse.  Place in a sauce pan, cover with water.  Bring to a boil. Skim off the scum. Simmer for about 15 min or until the beans mash easily with a fork.

Favas - do the same.


Add the sorrel, garlic, and spices to the blender.  Add 2 Tbs of olive oil.  Chop finely.  Taste for oil and salt.  Blend until well mixed.

This is great over chicken or fish or eggs!

Partially mash the beans - and add in the green sauce.  Enjoy with rice, flat bread, sun dried tomatoes, polenta - whatever your little heart desires.

Here's what it looks like with the garbanzos.

*Some Wildly Overgeneralized Generalizations:
(legumes for breakfast)

Costa Rica - Beans & Rice for breakfast with the (in)famous Salsa Lazano
Japan - the notorious, but undeniably strongly flavored, natto (fermented soy beans)
Mexico - refritos with sausage, chicken or pulled pork and some salsa/pico de gallo
India - spicy dahl (lentils) over rice.
and so on.